Porphyra Umbilicalis, commonly known as "Nori", is the name for a genus of Red Algae that grows in intertidal to shallow sub-tidal areas of coastal waters around the world. Its striking red colour comes from the presence of phycoerythrin, a pigment that absorbs blue light and reflects red.
Beyond its aesthetic appeal, Porphyra Umbilicalis, has been used for centuries in traditional medicine, particularly in Asian cultures, where it has been always valued for its healing and nourishing properties.
"Nori", is a potential renewable source of bioactive metabolites that have unique structural and functional features compared to their terrestrial counterparts.
Thanks to its promising bioactive constituents and associated biological activities, Red algae has garnered significant attention in Cosmetic and cosmeceutical industries, in the pursuit of healthier, more radiant skin.
P O R P H Y R A U M B I L I C A L I S M O L E C U L E S & I T S B I O A C T I V E F U N C T I O N S, P O T E N T B I O A C T I V I T Y & B E N E F I T S
Polyssacharides: Polysaccharides are responsible for the skin's natural ability to hydrate and retain water. They are also crucial for skin repair and skin renewal.
Proteins: Proteins are macromolecules made up of one or more aminoacids. Amino acids prevents water loss in the skin and provides moisturizing benefits.
Mycosporine-like Aminoacids (MAA): MAA's protects skin from UV radiation and acts as a potent photo-protector candidate.
Peptides: Peptides extracted from red algae have been shown to have powerful anti-aging and skin-repairing properties. These peptides can help stimulate collagen production, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. Additionally, red algae peptides have antioxidant properties that protect the skin from environmental damage and promote healthy and youthful skin.
Phenolics & Terpenoids: These compounds exhibit a broad range of potential health benefits such as antioxidative, anti-inflammatory, anticancer, antimicrobial, immunomodulatory, and antihypertensive.
Lipids: Seaweed present a low lipidic content (usually under 5%), but they are highly unsaturated and the fatty acids ratio is highly favorable.
Benefits or properties obtained from Lipids present in Red Algae are, skin barrier protection, antioxidant, anti-proliferative, anti-photodamage, anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial.
Vitamins A B C & E:
| Vitamin A | Red algae has very high levels of beta carotene which the body can convert to Vitamin A, better known as Retinol. Topical Retinol is supported as an effective anti-microbial therapy against acne. Topical retinoids accelerate epidermal turnover to reduce skin pigmentation and block its transfer to tissues. |
| Vitamin B & B12 |
-It helps to improve skin's barrier function, which prevents moisture loss and protects against environmental stressors. -Reduce redness and inflammation. -Anti-Ageing properties. It helps to stimulate collagen production, essential for maintaining skin's elasticity and firmness. It helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, making the skin appear smoother and more youthful. -Intense hydration. -Reduces hyperpigmentation and dark spots. This is achieved by inhibiting the transfer of melanim to the skin's surface, which is responsible for dark spots and uneven skin tone. It also helps to brighten the skin and even out the skin tone. -Protects against UV rays. -Regulates facial oil flow. |
| Vitamin C |
-Is a powerful antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals and helps to repair damaged skin cells. -It helps accelerate skin's collagen and elastin production. -Prevents signs of ageing, including fine lines and lack of elasticity. -Helps with dark spots and hyperpigmentation. |
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Vitamin E |
-Powerful Antioxidant. -Cell turnover & regeneration. -Strengthten skin barrier function. -Moisturizing, healing benefits. -Anti-inflammatory; Soothing and calming. -Provides intense hydration. -Helps to lighten dark spots caused by sun damage. -Effective natural barrier to the sun. -Intense hydration. |
Minerals: Seaweeds have been described as an ideal safe natural source of minerals. Mineral sea salts used in cosmetics are rapidly absorbed by the skin, providing refresh, replenish and hydration benefits. Due to its ability to retain water for a longer time, Minerals, restore skin pH, helping in, blood circulation, acne repair and prevention, and it also provides anti-aging effects. High concentrated forms of marine minerals and trace elements provide a protective effect against UV radiation too.
Pigments: Red Algae contains a large variety of pigments which absorb the light for photosynthesis. The pigment act as a shield to the skin cells from UV irradiation.
Fatty Acids: They have anti-allergic and anti-inflammatory activities and also act as an emollient that protects the skin from water loss.
Carotenoids: Red algae contains highest levels of carotenoids, which help to smooth fine lines and wrinkles. The carotenoids present in Red Algae are naturally converted in Vitamin A, commonly known as Retinol. Retinol or Vitamin A, is an effective antimicrobial treatment against acne, protecting the skin from free radicals and preventing the build-up of excess oil that results in acne. Carotenoids are also known for its capacity to absorb energy from the sun and mitigate the harmful effects of UV rays by dissipating excess energy.
C O N C L U S I O N
Recently, consumer preferences have shifted towards natural skin care products due to concerns over the potential toxicity associated with synthetic formulations. Studies have shown that Marine macro-algae, and more specifically Red Algae, stands out as a real gem in skincare.
Red algae, have emerge as a popular choice in cosmeceutical research, due to their abundant reserves of bioactive compounds that offer oustanding natural skin benefits, without inducing harmful effects on human health, such as cytotoxicity, reproductive toxicity, genotoxicity, mutagenicity, or carcinogenicity, making from it an invaluable ingredient for anyone seeking a radiant, youthful complexion.
Wether you are battling dryness, looking to brighten your skin tone, or aiming to prevent premature ageing, Red Algae offers a holistic solution rooted in the wisdom of the ocean.
